The holy grail of South American Travel: Machu Picchu.
If you haven´t already been there, you are going to go there at some point in your life, it is nearly inevitable. When you go, Machu Picchu will attempt to take as much money from your wallet as possible, in a very short period of time. Íf you try and fight it, it will suck you in like a ruinous Incan money vaccuum made of stone.
It does not have to be this way.
If you wish to go to Machu Picchu in 2 days, for under US$35 a day, or US$70 per person for the trip, do read on. Otherwise, wait patiently until the time when you do plan to go to Machu Picchu, then read awa
y.
Folks travelling in South America, save for a few very odd, odd people, go to Machu Picchu during their stay. For most backpackers, this is the most expensive place they have seen since there home country- For example, 2 liters of water on the site itself costs over US$3. Yup, it is that expensive.
If you have an Inca Trail trip for this summer, you have already purchased it. They are fully booked for the trail till at least August, and there is no way to walk on or anything like that . Totally closed down. That said, there is an alternative trek that takes an extra grueling day and won´t win you a snazzy Inca Trail T-shirt or the intense admiration of your friends, so we decided to give up on trekking altogether and just go for the site. Here´s how:
Firstly, cross your fingers, because other travellers doing the same thing are now your worst enemy. You must be quicker, smarter, and better looking than the rest of them (well, or richer of course, in case cheap tickets are sold out). Take a bus, taxi, cow truck, or any form of transport you can find first thing in the morning from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. Plan to get there, at worst, before noon because your destination closes at lunch.
In Ollantaytambo, there isn´t much but overpriced touristy places, some cool ruins including a carved face in the mountain, and lots of waiting backpackers. Keep in mind that to see the ruins in OT, you are supposed to buy a US$25 ticket, but you can most likely bribe the nice men to get in on the cheap (like we almost did!).
The Cerrojo backpackers train is the key piece to the cheap Machu Picchu puzzle. You may only buy your tickets from the Ollantaytambo train station. Make this notice I foto´d your desktop wallpaper. Study it. It is yours to know. This train costs $20, and goes from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, aka Machu Picchu town, at night. There is no cheaper train, or authorized mode of transportation, possible.
One last thing - buy lots of food while you are stuck in Ollantaytambo. It will be another key to escaping with your wallet intact from Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes(AC). Items like Coke and Doritos that have prices on the package will not be inflated in AC, but everything else is. That said, fill a bag with oranges, nuts, bread, local cheese, cucumbers, water, etc before you leave Ollantaytambo, you´ll be happy you did.
I know this trip already sounds confusing, and that is because it is, and it was set up this way. When Peru privatized this attraction, it paved the way for serous graft where tourists get fleeced painfully. Do not feel bad about trying to pay less to see these things, as the local people are hardly the benefactors of your money.
When you get to AC, walk right up the little ramp to the town square. Wait patiently for no more than 20 seconds until someone offers you a room for under 15 soles ($5) a person. Take the room, pass out, and get ready to wake up at 4am.
At 4:30am, rise, shine, and hustle down past the busses towards the mountains down the dark spooky path. Actually, stop in at the train station counter first, and buy some return tickets. If you want them for $20, you have to wait one more day in AC because the train leaves at a convenient 5:45am. By stairs, Machu Picchu is about an hour and a half walk directly uphill. It is painful, so leave time if you are not used to doing 1.5 hours of stairmaster at 30,000 feet.
If you still have an undated student ID, like me (wink, wink), you can get into the ruins for US$10. If you take the bus up instead of the steps (US$6), take the first one so that you can see the sun come up over the tall mountains in the east at 7am.
The doors to the site do not open till 6am, don´t believe people that say otherwise.
Here is the schedule of returning trains, in case you want to throw down an extra 12 bucks to cut a day off of your schedule.
PHEW! ok, here is the breakdown-
-Cusco to Ollantaytambo $3
-Food + water (not including dinner and lunch in ollantaytambo) $10
-train up to AC $20
-hotel room $5 (10 if you stay an extra night)
-Admission to roooooones $10
-bus back because you hike too damn much $6 ($0 if you are a tough-guy)
-train back that same day $32 ($20 if you stay a night and take the cheeepy)
TOTAL: $86 (bargain basement price - $73)
Que ganas tengo de poder volver a aquella zona, asi que nada, muchisimas gracias por todas estas fotos de aquella zona.
Posted by: Mujer | November 23, 2011 at 04:12 PM
Good advice to save money.
I paid $75 for the train from cusco, $12 for the bus ride up and back, $40 admission (not a student), and $13 for food and water for the day. So $140 for one sight. Ouch!
PS. For ruins, I think pompeii in italy was much more interesting.
Posted by: Roosh | September 24, 2007 at 01:06 PM
i am from cusco and it is true how expencive it is for you guys....people there think that gringos that go there have tons of money thats why they keep takin money from you guys...i just wanted to say that that is a sad thing because we are in a way destroying our economy because we are scaring away the tourists...but i hope you guys had fun
Posted by: maria | July 01, 2006 at 11:56 PM
Machu Picchu was certainly one of the most expensive places I have visited.
I arrived via train on my first day and visited the city during the afternoon. The next day we visited the city in the morning. At noon it started to rain and we went down to Aquas Calientes since we had to catch the train anyways.
I paid $140 for the bus and the Entrance Fees to MP (for two travellers).
The tickets are valid only one day and the bus is outrageously expensive.
Nevertheless, I would gladly pay again.
Posted by: Machu Picchu Visitor | March 20, 2006 at 11:11 PM
I would suggest that you take the bus up in the morning to the ruins, then walk down, since the ruins close fairly early and you'll have plenty of time. Down is easier than up. And for god's sake bring food to Aguas Calientes. NEVER have I paid so much for such crappy fare. Not even in Oslo. I am not kidding.
Posted by: JP | August 09, 2005 at 10:07 PM
hey!!! superman!!!be cool!!!
Posted by: sebas argentina!!!! | June 15, 2005 at 03:49 PM
sweet sweet student ID. me and my asian skin will be in college 4eva.
Posted by: Albert | June 13, 2005 at 12:01 PM